July 15, 2012
Jackson Hole has had an interesting history...first, though we need to clear something up...the town is called Jackson, the valley it sits in is called Jackson Hole. Actually, it used to be called Jackson's Hole, referring to the high valley ringed by mountains and named for a fur trapper - David Jackson - who spent the winter of 1829 in the valley. Jackson promoted the valley as a great source for the fur trade, and thus it became known as "Jackson's Hole". The valley provided a verdant pasture for wildlife in the summer, and therefore it was a popular place for native Americans to spend the summer and fall hunting.
Eventually Jackson became a western town built on the cattle business, and all the services associated with a growing western town. And in the mid to late 1900's it became a popular second home (or third, or fourth) location for celebrities and the affluent, as well as a popular tourist attraction year-round. Fortunately, in 1929 (despite widespread opposition) Teton National Park was created, and in the 1930's John D. Rockefeller, Jr., and his son Laurance began buying up lands around the fledgling park. To retain their anonymity, the Rockefellers formed the Snake River Land Company and bought property under that name. Over time, they added some of their holdings to the park and this led to the expansion of Teton National Park.
So, that brings us to today...we are going to visit Teton National Park and our first stop will be the Laurance Rockefeller Preserve and Center. Laurance Rockefeller was an ardent conservationist, and he purchased and donated thousands of acres to the Teton National Park. This preserve was given as the last piece of his holdings, and it served as the family's private refuge, the JY Ranch, until it was given to the park in 2001. Today it is the site of a very special visitors center that celebrates the wonder, importance and healing power of nature.
Inside the center, we immediately feel a sense of peace and calm with the warmth of wood throughout, and lighting that is reminiscent of the dappled shade and light of the forest. As we make our way through this extraordinary space, we pause to read the quotes that make profound statements about our relationship with nature...and we make the connection with the incredible nature that surrounds this building...
One of the first exhibition areas is this great hall that actually has an amazingly intimate feel. The lighting is very low, and along one side of the hall there is an array of large flat screen displays that show amazing videos of nature, both visual and audio ...like a moose feeding in a river, or a bird calling from high in a tree, or a babbling creek flowing across a rocky bed...it is so calming and enriching, we sit for a while...
At the far end of the great hall is this illuminated scene of the Tetons reflected in Jenny Lake. The piece must be ten feet wide and five feet tall, and takes up nearly the whole wall. And what is really amazing is that, as you approach the scene you begin to see that it is not a photo or painting, and as you draw very close you see that it is a composite of small photos of all the flora and fauna that is found in this park during all four seasons...each small photo is only about one inch square...
We continue our tour, and the quotes continue to be inspiring and so similar to what we ourselves experience when we go camping and hiking...
...and the beauty outside ties directly to the reflections on these walls...
We leave the Laurance Rockefeller Preserve Center inspired, and we drive deeper into Teton National Park. Only a few minutes from the Rockefeller center we spot one of the park's residents having a late breakfast...and she was kind enough to stop chewing and smile for the camera...!
We're now on our way to Jenny Lake, one of several lakes located inside the park. Along the way we get some more spectacular views of the Tetons...
Jenny Lake is named after Jenny - the Shoshone wife of a prominent mountain man trapper, Richard "Beaver Dick" Leigh (who also has a lake named after him). Jenny Lake is spectacular because it sits at the base of Grand Teton. It is a great place to have lunch, so we have our picnic (complete with a nice Pinot Noir) on the shores of Jenny Lake...wait a minute...who stole Patty's sun hat?!
After lunch we take a short drive to another spot on the lake where we can get out and walk around a bit...
Not only does Jenny Lake provide a gorgeous foreground for the mountains, and is beautiful to look at from the shore, visitors can also board boats to travel to the other side for more great views and hiking.
Our next stop is the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor Center (named for a deceased Wyoming congressman) which is a newer addition to the park. And guess what...more amazing views of these magnificent mountains! We just can't help ourselves, they're just so amazingly beautiful!
This moose statue greets us at the visitor center, and requires a little backstory...many years ago we visited Kip and Lin and stayed at their cabin in the mountains near Dubois, Wyoming. One morning, very very early, before the sun was up, Patty left the guest cabin for the outdoor restroom while Michael laid in bed. Not one minute after she left the cabin she came racing back in and slammed the door, exclaiming "I think there's a horse out there!!" Michael got up, looked it the window, and there on the path, not ten yards from the porch of the cabin, was a full-grown moose! And these bad boys are big and ornery! So, this photo was a bit of a re-enactment as well as a reunion of sorts...
All this nature stuff can really build up a thirst in even the most seasoned outdoors person, so we head back to the "ranch" to water the animals...
Molly is a great hostess, she is appreciative when you give in to her demands for petting, she rolls quickly to give you access to her belly, and she lays on your feet to keep them warm during these chilly mountain evenings...
It's time for dinner, and we decide to go to a new place called The Kitchen which is in town but off the beaten (tourist) path. It is a hip little place, and the food is
fantastic!! Be careful though when you turn the corner in the hallway to the restrooms...you'll be greeted by this rather intense looking gatekeeper...
After our amazing meal at The Kitchen, we decide that a little walk through town on a beautiful evening is in order. The shops ringing the town square are still open so we browse art galleries (where you can get a heck of a deal on a bronze horse statue...only $54,000), try on cowboy hats (it's tougher than you might think), stop in a jewelry and bead store (always scouting the competition...and looking for unusual beads), and what the heck...let's have a little ice cream just to settle our stomachs...
Well pardner...it's been a great day out here in the wild, wild west, and now it's time to head off into the sunset....
Unfortunately, tomorrow morning we have to leave beautiful Jackson Hole, and we'll be sad to say so long to Kip and Lin...but we'll be our way to Eastern Oregon and a new and different experience...a farm! Y'all come back now, ya hear?!
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like your work.....I look around to see what folks are doing in the Jackson area from time to time....I'm a descendent of Richard Leigh...but not Jenny.His second wife is my grandmother....they were some tough people to have lived up there in those times.
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