June 16, 2012
Today is the final day of our group tour, and we're going to get out of the city...we have had the opportunity to spend an extra day in Kathmandu already, due to the closure of Everest Base Camp, and now we have an extra day to spend outside of Kathmandu.
Our tour leader, Steve, lives in Kathmandu with his wife and daughter, and in addition to being tour leaders they also run a guest cottage business in the hills above Kathmandu. Their property is on the edge of the Shivapuri National Park, and Steve has planned a day hike for us in the park followed by an afternoon and evening of relaxation at his cottages...sounds like a great way to conclude our tour.
We aren't going to hit the road for our hike until 10:30, so we decide to walk to Thamel for one more quick visit to see if there is anything interesting to take home with us. The walk was about 20 minutes each way, and while we really didn't find anything interesting in the market we got a full experience of life on the sidewalks of Kathmandu...which, of course, would not be complete without passing at least one "sacred" cow...
Garbage collection is an interesting thing here in Kathmandu...it seems that the system is as follows: someone drops their garbage on the street or sidewalk, and this starts the official garbage pile. Others follow with their garbage which is strewn in the same general vicinity. Eventually there are open mounds of moldering food and other things (Patty spotted a dead cat in one pile), which get picked up at some point...we assume...it certainly adds to the visual and olfactory experience of our walk.
The weather is steamy as we leave the hotel, and once again Patty and I are fortunate enough to get to ride in the Maruti Gypsy...the little red and white Jeep...all the way up into the hills. The ride is rough enough along the somewhat paved streets of Kathmandu, but it gets even more exciting as we head up into the hills where paving is inconsistent, and the roads are steep, narrow and winding. Neil rides in the front and is constantly putting his hands up in the air as if to signal "go ahead, take me now, there is nothing I can do..."
The Shivapuri National Park is controlled by the Nepalese Army, so we have to check in at the main gate before we start our uphill climb into the park itself.
A few yards up the trail we stop to look at the map of the park. Our destination today is Nagigumba, where there is a small monastery...it's about 6km each way. So we begin our hike...the heat is increasing and it is really humid; at least the forest that surrounds us provides some shade along the way. The forest is alive with sounds of cicada buzzing and various birds calling...
Along the way we get some views of the Kathmandu Valley below, and we stop for a quick break and to let the group regather...and of course, Dick (our professor) sees the opportunity to give us a real-time lecture on the plants he has seen on the course of the hike and their significance...we're always learning...though we think Ted was sleeping in the back of the class...
We reach the monastery in a little over an hour and are able to see Steve's cottages from here...the red tile roofs just at the edge of the tree in the foreground...it's so humid that the air is very hazy so it is difficult to get any clear long range photos...
While we were taking photos and waiting for the rest of the group, Ted (Buddha) went ahead and we found him in such a classic Buddha state...sitting peacefully under a large trees, prayer flags fluttering in the wind, a serene smile on his face, his bald head shining in the dappled sunlight...striking...
We joined Buddha under his tree, and as we watched, two cows made their way up the stairs, through the gate, and into the front yard of the monastery...
The group enjoyed a nice lunch under the tree, and then we took a tour of the monastery...which is actually a nunnery..it was similar to other monasteries we have visited, but this one was on the small and simple end of the scale.
One more photo from the lookout before we head down the trail ...
This was a rather large and colorful bug that caught our eye as we made our way back to the park entrance...
We left the park, and this time Ted joined us in the little red and white jeep...he rode in front and he too was taken by Mario's spirited driving style, particularly the downhill acceleration through the narrow streets. About halfway down the hill we turn off and head across to Steve's cottages. At this point the road turns from a sketchy partially paved road to more of a rock and dirt path just wide enough for a car...and it was not uncommon for our rear ends to leave our seats as we rolled from deep ruts to protruding rocks in the roadway...After about 15 minutes of riding a bucking bronco we arrive at the foot of Steve's property, and here's where the last who weeks of training at monasteries in the hills pays off for us...there is an uphill path and about 100 stairs to reach Steve's main house. We're thankful we did not bring any luggage...!
The climb us worth it, however, as we are greeted by a very nice house with a terrace that provides a panoramic view of the Kathmandu Valley...we drop our backpacks and enjoy a delightful mint lemonade. And Dick makes a new friend...!
For a couple of hours we enjoy the guest cottage with Ted and Neil...Nancy and Dick spent their down time up the hill at the main house. Ted, the tech guy, is trying out the wifi connection, and is still playing around with some little app that should be giving him the altitude...
When we found out that they had beer on hand in our cottage, we ordered up a round...well actually a couple of rounds...even though we're no longer hiking, we're still sweating just sitting around because it is so humid..a little Everest and San Miguel beer should help that...
The guest cottage is very nice...very comfortable, nothing too fancy, and a great location...quiet, great view...here's one of the guest rooms with an attached bathroom...a view from the main room, and the three amigos relaxing in the main room...the two stairways on either side of the main room lead up to two loft rooms for additional guests.
Here's the link to more info about these cottages... http://www.shivapuricottage.com/
We avail ourselves of the showers and clean up before climbing back up to the main house for cocktails and dinner. We meet two other guests - John and Helen - who are staying at Steve's place, and have a great time on the terrace...
This is our last night together as a group, and it's hard to believe...we have been together for two weeks, we've eaten countless meals together, travelled thousands of miles together, laughed at each others' silliness, and have experienced a great journey as a group...so tonight is our chance to reminisce a little and to say thank you. Steve has pulled together a nice slideshow of our trip and we watch it in the main house. The house is beautiful and so comfortable...here are a few photos of the main floor area with its sitting areas ...
We had heard the story from Steve about how as a young man from Jersey in the Channel Islands he had trekked to Everest Base Camp, and when he returned home the local newspaper man asked to read Steve's diary about the journey...well, one thing led to another, and the next thing Steve knew he was on the front page of the local paper and credited with having summitted Everest! A photo of Steve and the newspaper article are on the wall...Way to go Steve!
What a beautiful night...we have dinner together one last time with a view of the valley lights below....
All that's left is the return to our hotel in the city, so we mount up...and Ted again joins us in the little jeep for the drive down the mountain...and OMG what a drive. It is pitch black, nothing but our headlights illuminating the rutted rocky road, and Mario clearly loves this drive as he maneuvers our little vehicle around all the curves and obstacles. We have never laughed so hard in our lives as we listen to Ted's monologue from the front seat. At one point we're careening downhill, out of a rut, and around a corner and the driver's phone rings...and he answers the call!! Ted says "It must be his mother-in-law..." Over the course of the next ten minutes we are lifted from our seats by the combination of bumps and speed, we're thrown from side to side, the whole time laughing out loud (and praying inside)...We tried to take a video from the back seat and only got a few seconds because the camera is bouncing around so much we accidentally shut it off!
Eventually we make it to pavement, and then it's just the usual nighttime drive through the outskirts of Kathmandu...dodging pedestrians, bicycles and dogs (none of whom are wearing lights, and there are no street lights), and swerving into oncoming traffic (who love to hit you with their high beams) to pass slower vehicles...
By the time we extricate ourselves from the jeep, we are exhausted, giddy from laughter, and in need of a good chiropractor and a kidney function test...
We say good night to the group, thank our host and driver, and head to bed. We'll see everyone one last time in the morning.
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